Noon: We left Presov at about noon. I was a bit hungry, even though I had eaten a banana dipped in nutella and some crackers. We headed west out of town on the road to Poprad, a city high in the Tatras mountains. I chewed some gum. I brought about ten packs of Orbit Spearmint gum with me from the U.S., and am now about to run out, so each piece takes on added significance.
12:12: We pass this sign, advertising the upcoming Fugees reunion tour stop in Bratislava. Didn't know the Fugees had broken up? You are not alone:
12:35: I don't feel as hungry, as I've been occupied with constantly taking pictures out the window of snow and billboards. I am annoying the other passengers, but try to pass this off as an eccentricity. They seem to want to yell at me, but perhaps lack the gumption.
12:37: We drive past the very impressive Spišský hrad, or Spiš Castle in English. I strongly encourage you to click on the link and learn about this place, it is a gigantic castle that just kind of straddles the road to Poprad, and which used to guard the pass to the Saris region where I live from mean people brandishing swords and sticks. I really wanted to check it out, but no one wanted to stop, so instead I can only offer these pictures from the car:
This English translation from the website offers a succinct raison d'être:
The Spiš castle has a wonderful location and its architecture is worth of your time and effort.
12:48: Arrival! We entered the city through a gate in the wall, and parked in the square.
Levoca is a city that dates all the way back to the 11th Century. It's pretty incredible, with a high wall surrounding the entire place and a very nice cathedral. Here's a picture of the wall:
This next photo masterfully juxtaposes the history and majesty of the wall with good old-fashioned contemporary toilet talk:
When you arrive in the square you will first come upon this statue of one of Slovakia's most famous national heroes, Ľudovít Štúr.
Štúr, an early Slovak nationalist, is best remembered for basically founding what has become the modern Slovak language that I attempt and fail to speak today. For the record, I was told this by my guide, and did not just copy it from Wikipedia. Here are some pictures of the backstreets of Levoca, with one in which you can see my guide and his girlfriend (if you know who he is) (I have not received permission to expose his identity on the internets):
12:51: Still hungry, could go for a halusky. We get our first glimpse of the cathedral, a must have for any Slovak town worth its salt. Levoca's cathedral is very nice, and is decorated with some funky art:
12:52: Next we came across the town hall, and next to that the domed evangelical church. They were quite nice:
12:54: I chewed more gum to stave off starvation. I considered buying this, even in the face of disapproval from my fellow travelers:
I also saw this political poster, advocating the candidacy of P. Pavelko. I can't really read Slovak, but in the ad he seems to claim to be a millionaire. Good for him!
And what do you know, Levoca has it's own Cage of Shame. Remember our first Cage of Shame together? Those were the salad days:
12:58: Lunch!
We hit the Janus Restaurancia which was conveniently located in an alley behind the drugstore. I deftly ordered a local specialty, Spiš Pierogies and homemade sausage:
1:10: Finished!
The verdict?
1:25: After a tough day of sightseeing, we headed towards the car. On the way my guide pointed this out, the Marianska hora:
The Marianska hora is a famous place of pilgrimage for Catholics, and was visited by Pope John Paul II in 1995. It is also up on a hill.
2:25: Back in Presov for a nap. Exhausted.
On Sunday I am headed to Germany for the first time, to go to a teacher's thingy in Berlin. Also, if all goes well, I will be meeting Clint S, a former member of W.T., who is in the country on business. I'll be sure to bring my camera, have a neat weekend.
7 comments:
There is a statute of one of Slovakia's most famous national heroes? Do they have a statue of limitations?
Was "Jackass" the best you could do? Come on M.L.! If you are going to deface public property abroad ya gotta represent!
What about "F*** You Chech Republic!" Or "Yo Mama Eats Borsht," or even a "Kansas City Crips."
I mean really M***, a "L***** wuz here" would have been real nice (It is my father's birthday on Sunday--I'm sure he would have appreciated it).
But "Jackass". . . pathetic. We expect more from you M***.
James
Stop pretending life in Slovakia is hard. Orbit gum is in every supermarket by the checkout. Don't tell me it tastes different in the States.
By the way, the politico on the poster was a "reformed Communist" and he was announcing that he comes from the party that is "not the party of millionaires but of the millions". This party is now defunct, so the super-catchy slogan didn't help much.
Thanks to all of you for your helpful and snide comments. It ends up the Orbitz gum is different here because it comes in a hard little pill form as opposed to the delicious soft Orbitz you can get in the states that melts in your pocket.
The reason it only comes in the hard pill form in Slovakia and not the soft chewy variety is so they can inject the truth serum comrade.
M.L.,
Please update this damned website. Tomorrow is my last day as a law clerk at the PD's Office. I will need something to read.
James
Hey James, tell your Dad I said happy b-day, and I should have a new post up posthaste!
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